Sumatra

op Gepost in Reisinfo Hits: 2185

In 2002 bezochten we Sumatra. Op dat moment zat het toerisme richting Indonesie helemaal in het slop als gevolg van het rumoer rond de verkiezingen en de spanningen na de aanslagen van 2001. Het werd dus een trip zonder al te veel andere westerlingen. Sterker nog, in vrijwel alle accomodatie waar we overnacht hebben waren we de enige aanweigen. Kommer en kwel dus voor de mensen die hier in hun levensonderhoud mee proberen te voorzien. Wel een prachtig land gezien: het geweldige Gunung Leuser met z'n Orang Utans en het meer bij Maninjau als hoogtepunt. Hieronder een overzicht van de plaatsen die we hebben aangedaan met onze ervaringen van toendertijd, het komt nog van de oude site en is dan ook nog in het Engels...

mapsumatra

29/04/2002

 

Ex. rate USD 1= 8300 Rupiah

Flight Amsterdam - Medan Singapore Airlines

 

 

30/04/2002 - Medan

 

 

Stay:

 

Sarah's guesthouse

 

25000 Rp

 

Due to the recession there are only two rooms left, located in a quiet neighborhood, not too close to the mosks...

 

Eat:

 

At one of the foodstalls at jl. Semarang.

 

Other:

 

From Medan airport to the Mesjid Raya area is a 10 min. becak ride. Just walk outside the airport, many becaks will be waiting.

 

The Meshid Raja is worth a visit and so is the Istana Maimoon, the sultans palace.

01/05/2002 Bukit Lawang

 

 

Stay:

 

Wisma Bukit Lawang Indah

 

15000 Rp

 

Large though simple rooms overlooking the river. clean. Good restaurant

 

Eat:

 

At the Wisma Bukit Lawang Indah's restaurant

 

GREAT gado gado!

 

Other:

 

Buses to Bukit Lawang leave from Pinang Baris busterminal.To get there take bemo 64 (4000 Rp.)

 

Medan - Bukit Lawang is a 2.5 hrs busride (5000 Rp/person)

 

02/05/2002 Gunung Leuser NP

 

 

Stay:

 

Tents in the rainforest

 

Eat:

 

At the campsite, a fancy jungle dinner!

 

Other:

 

We met our guide Thomas on the Medan - B.L bus, he turned out to be a pretty ok relaxed easy going guy.

 

Jungle trips are pretty expensive but the same price all over B.L. 1 day: 15 U$ 2 days : 30 US 2 days + raft : 45 US. We got on the 2 day + raft trip for 40 USD. Great experience, seen some Orang Utan and primates rafting was great, a lot of water at the ending of the rainseason.

 

03/05/2002 Bukit Lawang

   

Stay:

 

Wisma Bukit Lawang Indah

 

15000 Rp

 

Large though simple rooms overlooking the river. clean. Good restaurant

Eat:

 

At the Wisma Bukit Lawang Indah's restaurant

 

Other:

 

The Orang Utan feeding site at the PHPA post. 20500 Rp.

04/05/2002 - Berastagi

 

 

Stay:

 

Wisma Sibayak

 

40000 Rp.

 

Very nice rooms, in the new building. very clean. Look brandnew. Just a lot of noise from the main road though.

 

Eat:

 

At the wisma, good food and a lot of (dated) info about the area on the walls.

 

Other:

 

The (tourist) minibus ticket to Berastagi was 45000 Rp. And we chose this because the bus was supposed to go directly from B.L. to Berastagi to safe time. But the minibus went by Medan anyway... and broke down for two hours as well... So don't let them fool you, and take the public bus, also by Medan but a lot cheaper!

05/05/2002 - Berastagi

 

 

Stay:

 

Wisma Sibayak

 

Eat:

 

At the wisma again

Other:

 

Today we went up the Gunung Sibayak. (6 am) About 15 min. by bemo to the start of the trail and a 2 1/2 hr. climb to the top. As we climbed on sunday there were a lot of locals camping in the crater. Nice chatting.

 

No need for a guide though you will be adviced so and shown "death reports" everywhere. Just don't climb alone and mind the very quick changing weather.

 

The downhill by what is partly left of a path with stairs is more difficult but you will end up at the hotsprings. Skip the fist baths you find, a few hundred meters down the road is another one that has far cleaner pools and not so many visitors.

05/05/2002 - to Tuk tuk

 

 

Stay:

 

Linda's, a fantasic spot at the lake. only 10000 Rp. a night!

 

Eat:

 

At the Linda's restaurant, it's an new place as the old Linda's burned down in 2001.

 

delicious!

Other:

 

Bemo to Kabanjahe, Bus to Siantar, get of at Tungalling, take a bemo to Haranggaol. From there by ferry to Tuk Tuk (only on monday, when market in Haranggaol) It is not much quicker than the Siantar - Parapat bustrip but more fun and relaxed on the boat instead of the bumpy bus.

 

Also a nice local market at Haranggaol.

07/05/2002 - Tuk Tuk

 

 

Stay:

 

Linda's

Eat:

 

Linda's / Bagus Bay

Other:

 

Naturally this is the place to RELAX !

 

Internet 24000 Rp / Hour

 

btw loads of accom in tuk tuk and only very few visitors at that time.

08/05/2002 - Tuk tuk

 

 

Stay:

 

Linda's

Eat:

 

At Tabo cottages, with western food for the homesick...

 

In the evening local folkmusic at Bagus bay, sung by four man. Very good!

Other:

 

Today we went to Parapat, nice to do some shopping

 

Ferry 3000 Rp.

 

Funeral taking place in the main street.

 

internet 20000 Rp. / hour

 

Bank BNI has an ATM

09/05/2002 - Tuk Tuk

 

 

Stay:

 

Linda's

Eat:

 

At the Linda's again, love the food and such a nice view.

Other:

 

Rented a motorbike 45000 Rp.

 

Seen the graves at Tomok and went to the hotsprings near Pangururan. The springs are very disappointing. Its a 2 hrs ride to get there.

 

Samosir is great for riding a motorbike, nice views at so many places.

10/05/2002 - To Bukkitingi

 

 

Stay:

Eat:

 

This is a pretty long bustrip, it has a dinnerstop around 20:00 and one around 01:0

 

Bring motion- sickness pills if needed, Lots of curves on this track.

Other:

 

Today we took the nightbus to Bukkitingi.

 

Tickets from the " Toba lake fishing trip" office, reliable, some people could not get on the bus because of fake tickets...

 

120000 Rp. for a "luxery" bus, Don't end up in the back of the bus near the toilet, you can image why i guess..

 

Leaves at 14:30 from Parapat busterminal, arrival 05:00 at Bukittingi.

11/05/2002 - Bukkitingi

 

 

Stay:

 

Hotel Kartini 45000 Rp.

Eat:

 

At the "Lonely Planet Cafe" ... not the best food around ...

 

Later at the Mona Lisa, this chinese restaurant looks like shit but the food is great.

Other:

 

Bukittingi has a LARGE market, anything for sale.

 

The panorama view has a nice sunset view of the Sianok canyon.

12/05/2002 - Bukkitingi

 

 

Stay:

 

Hotel Kartini

Eat:

 

The small cafe opposit Kartini.

Other:

 

Left for a trip through the Minankabau area

 

Visits to small villages with handycraft and weaving and the royal palace as well, nice trip ending at Singkarak lake for a swim.

13/05/2002 - Bukkitingi - Maninjau

 

 

Stay:

 

Beach guesthouse 20000 Rp.

 

Very nice people running the place.

Eat:

 

Skrikandi restaurant, warm beers but great minankabau food!

Other:

 

Went to Kota Gadang a silver work village. Took the long way; through the canyon and up the hills, very nice walk! Some shops to visit.

 

Left for Maninjau in the afternoon, about 2 Hrs by public bus. 4500 Rp.

 

Fantasitic views on the lake at the last part of the trip, very steep curves all the way down.

14/05/2002 - Maninjau

 

 

Stay:

 

Beach guest house

Eat:

 

Simple cafe, simple food but tasty

Other:

 

Fantastic relaxing at the beach guesthouse, it has this tree-veranda hanging over the lake. Great place

 

Maninjau is definately a preferable place to stay than toba, much cleaner, more beautifull... pristine.

 

Internet in Maninjau: 24000 / Hr.

15/05/2002 - Maninjau - Dumai

 

 

Stay:

Eat:

 

Many "travellers cafe's" in bukkitingi. All have the same western food, they all arrange trips as well.

Other:

 

Took the bus back to Bukkitingi around two in the afternoon.

 

Got our bus/ferry ticket for 190.000 Rp. (if you want to buy seperate: bus B-tinggi /Dumai 60000 Rp. Ferry Dumai - Malaka 120000 Rp.)

 

The minibus left Bukkitingi at 19:30, arrival at Dumai 05:20

16/05/2002 - Dumai - Malaka

 

 

Stay:

Eat:

Other:

 

You have to wait till 10:00 in this shittown to get to the ferry....

 

The high speed ferry to Malaka takes two hours.